Leh – Khardung La – Nubra Valley
Route: Leh - Phyang - Khardung La (40kms) - Khardung - Khalsar - Diskit - Hunder - Diskit - Panamik
Distance: It will depend on the places you visit, but a round trip to Nubra Valley should be roughly 300 - 350 kms.
The Journey: There are various ways to do this excursion, people short on time prefer to only drive/ride till Khardung La, spend some time there and come back to Leh, any trip of this sort should come out to be 80 kms.
However many people do decide to go to Nubra Valley, which is highly recommended. You will need two - three days for such an excursion.
Here is a sample itinerary of the Nubra Valley circuit spanning three days:
Day 1 Leh - Khardung La - Hunder (120 kms): an early start should ensure that one reaches Khardung La without encountering lot of traffic. Despite all the hype surrounding Khardung La, drive/ride to the summit is relatively easy one. Road beyond South Pallu (check post where one needs to submit the permits) is in bad condition and gain in altitude is quite a lot, however it isn’t as strenuous or steep as Chang La or for that matter Tanglang La.
Once you reach the summit, you can take time out get your photo taken next to the signboard which says “Khardung La, 18380ft, Highest Motorable Road in the world”. For those out of breath, there is café at the summit as well where one can have a much needed cup of tea/coffee along with some snacks. There is also a souvenir shop selling Khardung La memorabilia.
After break get ready for a bumpy ride/drive till North Pallu (one needs to submit permits here as well) this also the last place before the village of Khardung where one can expect to find food.
Ride from North Pallu onward is relatively smooth with some fantastic views of the Nubra Valley. The main charm of this valley is the fact that views change every few kilometers from barren mountains to lush green fields to sand dunes, you will see and experience different views and weather extremities here and that too in a span of few hours.
Many people choose to stay at Diskit and there are phone facilities available here as well as hotels and guest houses. While in Diskit don’t forget to visit the ancient Diskit Gompa which was built in 1420 AD. Perched on top of a hill overlooking town of Diskit, the Gompa provides some breathtaking panoramic views. Access to Gompa is via a half hour trek through a two meter wide steep path; however the views and the Gompa more than make up for the effort. The main attraction of the Gompa is the main Deity, which holds in its hand the mummified human forearm and head, which is believed to be of a Mongol warrior.
However if you are looking for a more beautiful place to stay, then head over to Hunder 8 kms down the road. Hunder is set amidst fields of rye and barley and surrounded by fruit orchids and sand dunes; Hunder is a welcome break from the moonscape scenery of Ladakh.
Day 2 Hunder - Diskit - Sumur - Panamik - Sumur (40 kms): After backtracking for 15 odd kms you should be back at the bifurcation from where you had taken road to Diskit, now you need to take the other route going towards Sumur and Panamik.
Sumur (the village of three rivers) is the touristiest place in Nubra Valley, Sumurs main attraction is the 150 year old Samstening Gompa. Apart from that the village itself is quite beautiful, 20km down the road is the village of Panamik famous for 250 year old Ensa Gompa and hot water springs. This is also the last point tourists are allowed. After a hot bath head back to either Panamik for a good night sleep.
Day 3 Sumur - Khardung La - Leh (125 kms): Start early, despite the fact that you will have to cover only 125 km, controlled traffic on Khardung La means you could be delayed if the traffic from Leh is being allowed in. Once again road are good till North Pallu and it is a relatively easy drive/ride.
Accommodation: There are several accommodation options available in Diskit, Hunder and Sumur; Panamik on the other hand has only a handful of guest houses. Here is a list of hotels/guest houses in Ladakh http://www.jktourism.org/cities/ladakh/stay/tariff.htm
Amenities: There is a petrol pump in Diskit, however it is best not to rely on it and get the tank filled in Leh itself. There are also several phone booths in Diskit.
Restricted Area: Nubra Valley and Khardung La are restricted areas and to visit them you need permits which are easily obtainable from the DC’s office in Leh and can be procured by either submitting the application yourself or through a travel agent. The permits are issued for a maximum period of three weeks, in case you are visiting other restricted areas like Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso you need to mention them in the permit as well.
Make at least 4 photocopies of the permit per region, since you would need to submit them at various check posts
Best Regards,
Sunil Vikram
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