Rescued by Indian Army @ Drang Drung Glacier, Zanskar - Sep 2009 by Roopa SreedharIt was another glorious day of our 18 day itinerary. We were traversing in the Kargil to Padum circuit. After visiting the Bhutanese Bardan Gompa in the famous dark valley, we got back to JKTDC guest house in Padum. Craving for South Indian food had us taking over the kitchen. Pulav, Raita & yummy Puliogare adorned our brunch table. We also packed the food for the way.
As we were approaching the best view of this journey, the 22km long Drang Drung Glacier, the tyre of our TATA WINGER burst. Khadim, our driver changed the tyre. We had gone up only a few km when we felt the wobble again. To our shock, two other tyres had punctured.
The milestone we read a few minutes ago had said 3 kms. It was only 4 in the evening. We could see the Rangdum Gompa set on a hilltop faraway. But since we could see it, it did not seem to be so far away to us. We thought we could walk to Rangdum's JKTDC Guest house. So we told Khadim to get the vehicle repaired and come back for us. Or send another vehicle to pick us up. We picked up our food pack, fruits, jackets, sleeping bags, water and set on foot.
We had just walked a few steps and saw the milestone 24 km. Oooooooops! Oh My God, We had missed out a 'Zero' next to 'Three' in '30 kms'!!!!! What next???? Trepidation??? It would become dark soon. Suru river flowed silently yet speaking volumes. Our minds were equally active with unasked questions! Would we reach the next village before the light disappeared? Would Khadim come back to get us? Would we find a pickup? Would someone give us a lift? Would the God appear from behind the hills? Oh Buddha, could you hear our prayers? And on a practical note.. Would we have to sleep under some stones? Rahul had slept under a stone during his course with HIM. If he could, we could do that too in dire situation.
Far away from the horizon, we saw a cloud of dust, a glimmer of hope. The cloud of dust grew bigger & bigger as the minutes passed but did not disappear from our vision. A truck emerged in front of us. We offered a lot of money to the driver and asked him to give us a lift to Guest house. But the truck was going in the opposite direction towards Padum. He said ' what will I do with money that won't buy me anything in this isolation? Keep it!' WOW. There are something money can't buy, indeed!
We started walking again contemplating, introspecting, discussing, enjoying the scenery.
Far away, I thought I saw some houses. But the scene vanished from my vision soon & I thought I was hallucinating. Is this how it felt when mind played games? Gompa stayed wherever it was perched, tempting us to conquer it just as any peak would do.
Another cloud formed in the horizon. An army truck came out of the dust. We were hoping for a miracle. The truck passed us and went ahead. Just as we were entering into a mood of disappointment, the truck
took a U-Turn and came to a stop next to us. Khadim got off the Army truck with two army men. The first thing Khadim had done was go to the nearest army camp and convince the Indian Army to pick us up. A miracle had happened!The army men, Jogender Singh from Jammu & Hardiyal Sharma from MP dropped us to Rangdum Guest House, opened it up, ordered hot food for us from the only hotel. They told the few villagers to take good care of us & took our leave.
Khadim left for Kargil very early next morning. He came back by noon with another vehicle and spare tyres. Army men came back in time to say goodbye to us. As we went to thank Sherdeen, and give him a tip, he asked us to give him the sachets of Coffee (Nescafe) we had taken with us. He wanted to save them for any future traveler who visited him.
The honesty, bravery, selflessness and goodness of the people here touched our heart :) We met some of the best people on this trip. The time we spent in this valley is the most memorable time of the whole trip. Mesmerizing views of Nun & Kun staring down at the small village surrounded by natural fortress of green hillocks. The only hotel of the village managed by 50 year of Sherdeen. As soon as I close my eyes and think about Himalayas, I am transported to Valley of Suru at Rangdum.
Zillion Thanks to Khadim & the Indian Army!
The best way to travel in Himalayas is to take it slow & easy & let the beauty of Himalayas touch our soul like a soothing balm.
Photos @ http://picasaweb.google.com/tagindiateam/LadakhTrip2009ZanskarValleyDay12Day13#
&
http://picasaweb.google.com/tagindiateam/LadakhTrip2009ParachikSuruValleyRangdumDay11#
Best Regards,
Roopa Sreedhar
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1 comment:
Wow! Indeed makes you proud of the Indian Army!
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